1- PRESENTATION :

CERESTER^® is a 100% vegetable origin raw material. It is an " active-emollient ingredient ", with a dry feeling, penetrating fast in the epidermis, and containing the essentials fatty acids together with the unsaponifiable matter of the oil of origin.

Vegetable oils are very important in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutic formulations. They are necessary for making emulsions. Their image appeal to marketing people. Their own properties, coming from their content in fatty acids, mainly essential fatty acids and from their unsaponifiable, give to the finished goods active properties to the epidermis. Unfortunately, formulators are reluctant to use vegetable oils, because of oily and greasy feel.

Cerester is the good solution in order to give satisfaction to formulators and marketing people at the same time.

2- CERESTER^® PROCESS:

SOPHIM, with an innovating and patented process, replace the glycerol of the triglycerides contained in a vegetable oil, with a vegetable alcohol, generally the decyl alcohol. The alcoholysis reaction transforms the oily triglycerides contained in the oil of origin into wax-esters, short molecules, penetrating easily in the epidermis and giving a dry feeling to the finished goods. The fatty acids chains repartition in the wax-esters remain the same that in the oil of origin.

The scheme of the alcoholysis reaction of the CERESTER® process is :

Where R₁ , R₂ and R₃ represent fatty acids chains of the oil of origin.

3- AVERAGE COMPOSITION OF CERESTER^®:

The average content of CERESTER^® changes with the composition of the oil of origin:

4-COSMETIC PROPERTIES OF CERESTER^® :

CERESTER^® has cosmetic properties coming from its composition. As the intercellular cement contains ± 25 % of wax-esters, it means that CERESTER^® has a natural affinity with the skin. It penetrates easily into the epidermis, and it is an excellent emollient, which provides a dry feeling to the emulsions and/or to the products where it is incorporated.

CERESTER^® has no more odour than the oil of origin.

The ester function stabilizes the double bonds of the fatty acids. It means that CERESTER^® is a little more stable to oxidation than the oil of origin.

CERESTER^® is non comedogenic.

The essential fatty acids and the unsaponifiable of the oil of origin give active properties to the CERESTER^®.

Let us just remind the natural enzymatic metabolism of the essential fatty acids of the 6 range in skin.

LINOLEIC ACID (C18 :2)
	DESATURASE
LINOLENIC ACID (C18 :3)
	ELONGASE
DI HOMO LINOLENIC ACID (C20 :3) PGE1
	DESATURASE
ARACHIDONIC ACID (C20 :4) PGE2
	ELONGASE
DOCOSATETRAENOIC ACID (C22 :4)
	DESATURASE
DOCOSAPENTAENOIC ACID (C22 :5)

5-FATTY ACID COMPOSITIONS OF CERESTER^® :

They are coming from the ones of the original oil :

* Essential Fatty Acids

Those 4 Cerester are the standard range of products.

6-USES OF CERESTER^® IN COSMETICS:

CERESTER^® is a cosmetic raw material, easy to use in all cosmetic formulations such as: skin care, body lotions, hair care, body oils, hair oils, make up, lipsticks,…,sun care.

CERESTER^®may be used for marketing purpose: vegetable origin, fruit wax, image of"exotic"  oils, are often a request of marketing people.

CERESTER®, particularly Castor CERESTER®, are very good dispersing agents for pigments. Their power is much higher than the castor oil for example.

With dioxide of titanium, you can disperse 60% TiO2 in castor oil, but 75% TiO2 in Castor CERESTER®, that means a dispersion 25% more concentrated. Of course this is the same improvement for physical UV filters in sun care products.

With D&C Red#7, you can disperse 20% in Castor Oil and 28% in Castor CERESTER®, so a dispersion 40% more concentrated.

SOPHIM produces on a regular basis: Olive Cerester, Almond Cerester, Shea butter, Sweet Almond Cerester, Sunflower Cerester and Castor Cerester.

If you are looking for a specific oil having very interesting cosmetic and dermatological properties….., please ask us to manufacture your PERSONAL CERESTER^®

INDICATIVES FORMULAS