{"id":3545,"date":"2022-03-25T11:45:29","date_gmt":"2022-03-25T10:45:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sophim.com?p=3545"},"modified":"2024-05-17T11:27:08","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T09:27:08","slug":"cosmetics-chemistry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sophim.com\/en\/cosmetics-chemistry\/","title":{"rendered":"Cosmetics chemistry: Learn to decipher the ingredients !"},"content":{"rendered":"

The main families of cosmetic ingredients<\/span><\/h2>\n

Cosmetic formulation requires a high level of <\/span>expertise<\/b>. Specialised engineers and technicians must identify the various ingredients required and define the <\/span>best proportions<\/b> to meet the specifications in terms of <\/span>benefits<\/b>, <\/span>sensoriality <\/b>and <\/span>safety <\/b>for health.<\/span><\/p>\n

We can identify <\/span>several major families of ingredients<\/b>:<\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Actives<\/span><\/li>\n
  2. Texturing agents<\/span><\/li>\n
  3. Opacifiers<\/span><\/li>\n
  4. Pigments and Colourants<\/span><\/li>\n
  5. Surfactants<\/span><\/li>\n
  6. Preservatives<\/span><\/li>\n
  7. UV-filters<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Actives<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    Present mainly in cosmetic and hair care products, but also sometimes in make-up products, <\/span>active ingredients<\/b> have a biological activity and give a cosmetic formulation its claimed effectiveness.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Squalane<\/a>, and especially Phytosqualan by SOPHIM, is an active.<\/p>\n

    Active ingredients can have, among other things, slimming, antioxidant, anti-ageing or anti-wrinkle, firming, moisturising and repairing, tensor or anti-comedogenic effects.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Texturing agents<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    These ingredients give a cosmetic product its structure, rheological properties, and application performance on the skin. They contribute, for example, to viscosity, smoothness, spreadability, flowability, softness and penetration. They may also play a nutritive or moisturising role.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Texturing agents<\/b> play an essential role in the chemistry of a cosmetic product, as they contribute directly to its sensoriality and effectiveness.<\/span><\/p>\n

    The properties of texturing agents are varied, with emollient, emulsifying, foaming, thickening or dispersing functions.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Vegetable waxes or butters are an example, making it possible to add thickness to a formula, or to obtain a solid galenic.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Opacifiers<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    Opacifiers <\/b>modify the final appearance of a cosmetic product by reducing its transparent or translucent appearance. They favour a “richer” and smoother finish, for greater sensoriality and pleasure of application.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Pigments and Colourants<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    Pigments and colourants <\/b>are mainly found in make-up products such as foundation, lipstick or colouring creams. They can be found, for example, in the form of coloured powders.<\/span><\/p>\n

    They can be at the heart of the expected benefit (foundation), or contribute to the consumer experience and desirability of a cosmetic product, by giving it a particular colour.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Surfactants<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    Texturing agents with surfactant properties<\/b> are used in many cosmetic products to promote the stability of an emulsion.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Surfactants <\/b>are also promoted for their cleaning and degreasing properties, and are used in many shampoos, shower gels or liquid soaps.<\/span><\/p>\n

    In cosmetics, the preferred surfactants have moderate detergent properties, so as not to attack the skin.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Preservatives<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    These ingredients are important to ensure that a cosmetic formulation lasts over time, by preventing alteration or oxidation phenomena.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Preservatives <\/b>are intended to prevent the proliferation of germs, bacteria, yeast and moulds (fungi), and to reduce the phenomenon of “corrosion” of a body during its exposure to oxygen molecules.<\/span><\/p>\n

    However, the advent of solid cosmetics, without water to encourage the growth of germs, has limited their use.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    UV-filters<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    These ingredients help to protect the skin against ultraviolet rays. These rays are generated by the sun and are divided into two types according to their wavelength: UVA and UVB. UVA rays cause accelerated ageing of the skin, while UVB rays cause burns, the so-called “sunburns”.<\/span><\/p>\n

    UV-filters<\/b> are obviously a must in all sun protection products, but they are also found in other products, in smaller quantities.<\/span><\/p>\n

    A useful deciphering of labels and certifications<\/span><\/h2>\n

    The actors in the cosmetics industry must establish a relationship of trust with consumers and reassure them of the quality and absence of risk of the ingredients used.<\/span> Numerous labels<\/b> make it possible to decipher the quality of the ingredients in a cosmetic formulation.<\/span><\/p>\n

    A protective European regulation<\/span><\/h3>\n

    The cosmetics industry is <\/span>strictly regulated in France and Europe<\/b>. The cosmetic ingredients used in the composition of marketed products must have demonstrated their harmlessness to health, and are validated after a complete toxicological file has been compiled without the use of animal testing.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Directive 76\/768\/EEC<\/b> regulates the formulation, production, labelling and packaging of cosmetic products. It is complemented by <\/span>Regulation (EC) N\u00b0 1223\/2009<\/b>, which is dedicated to the criteria for cosmetic product claims and is intended to provide quality information. Each Member State is responsible for the compliance of products produced or imported into Europe. We invite you to consult our dossier on the <\/span>European regulation of cosmetic products<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    But other criteria and labels can reassure you about the quality of the ingredients used.<\/span><\/p>\n

    The COSMOS certification<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n

    Issued by an independent organisation, the <\/span>COSMOS certification<\/b> guarantees the natural or organic character of a cosmetic product. It guarantees in particular:<\/span><\/p>\n