{"id":8684,"date":"2024-10-26T11:19:04","date_gmt":"2024-10-26T09:19:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sophim.com\/?p=8684"},"modified":"2024-11-12T11:24:16","modified_gmt":"2024-11-12T10:24:16","slug":"saponification-in-cosmetics","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sophim.com\/en\/saponification-in-cosmetics\/","title":{"rendered":"Saponification: A Process Aligned with Green Chemistry"},"content":{"rendered":"

Saponification in the production of olive squalane<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n

As a <\/span>manufacturer of natural-origin cosmetic ingredients<\/b>, SOPHIM offers products made from plant-based raw materials, prioritising <\/span>upcycling<\/span><\/a> for resilient and eco-responsible production. Distributed in numerous countries, Phytosqualan is a rich, natural emollient. This hydrocarbon is obtained by hydrogenating squalene, which is naturally present in the skin\u2019s stratum corneum. Non-comedogenic and biocompatible, our <\/span>plant-derived squalane<\/span><\/a> from olives is suitable for various galenic formulations. Phytosqualan meets the strictest environmental standards with a planet-friendly production process.<\/span><\/p>\n

From olive to squalane: a green chemistry process<\/span><\/h3>\n

The refining condensates of olive oil, the primary raw material in the production of Phytosqualan, consist of approximately <\/span>14% unsaponifiable molecules<\/b> (including 10% squalene) and <\/span>86% saponifiable molecules<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Saponifiable molecules<\/b> contain an ester bond, formed between a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and an alcohol group (-OH) by the removal of a water molecule (H2O). Triglycerides are the most well-known saponifiable compounds, but other molecules, such as phospholipids, can also undergo saponification. Vegetable oils and butters are frequently used in hygiene and beauty products.<\/span><\/p>\n

Unsaponifiables are compounds that do not undergo any saponification process. However, the unsaponifiable fraction of a vegetable oil or fat is often rich in high-value molecules, which are used in cosmetic products. Vitamins, for instance, are unsaponifiable compounds, as is the squalene found in olives.<\/span><\/p>\n

The production of Phytosqualan from olive oil involves several steps:<\/span><\/p>\n

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  1. Esterification<\/b><\/a> adds weight to saponifiable molecules by combining them with an alcohol to form triglycerides;\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
  2. Distillation<\/b><\/a> takes advantage of the differing boiling points of molecules to separate heavier triglycerides from the lighter unsaponifiable fraction;\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
  3. Saponification <\/b>separates any remaining saponifiable residues after distillation, yielding an ingredient almost exclusively composed of unsaponifiables;\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
  4. Hydrogenation <\/b>transforms squalene (C\u2083\u2080H\u2085\u2080) into squalane (C\u2083\u2080H\u2086\u2082) by adding dihydrogen, creating a more stable, saturated compound that is less prone to oxidation;\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
  5. Purification <\/b>includes several processes (winterisation, stripping, and silica gel purification), resulting in a stable, colourless, and odourless ingredient.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    The saponification process<\/span><\/h3>\n

    If the product obtained after distillation is rich in squalene,<\/span> it still contains saponifiable residues that need to be removed.\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

    This is the role of saponification<\/b>, which involves mixing saponifiable compounds (oils or fats) with an alkaline solution (potash, lye, etc.). During the chemical reaction, ester bonds in triglycerides (or other saponifiable molecules) react with a metal hydroxide to form carboxylates, the main active compounds in soaps. Carboxylates exhibit surfactant properties, are water-soluble, and provide good chemical stability.<\/span><\/p>\n

    At SOPHIM, the use of potassium hydroxide (KOH) <\/b>in saponification creates two immiscible phases:<\/span><\/p>\n