Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
Insapolive is the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil, naturally rich in squalene and other bioactive compounds. This plant-based ingredient is recognized for its emollient properties and affinity with the skin (squalene is naturally present in the skin sebum). Thanks to its biomimetic composition, Insapolive contributes to skin comfort and enhances the sensorial quality of formulations, while supporting a sustainable approach through the valorization of olive oil by-products.
Clear yellow liquid
Up to 5%
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INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
In natural cosmetics, vegetable oils play a central role thanks to their nourishing and protective properties. However, when examining the composition of a fat, one specific fraction attracts particular interest from formulators: the unsaponifiable fraction. Although it accounts for only a small proportion of most plant-derived raw materials, this fraction concentrates the main bioactive substances.
But what are unsaponifiables? What role do they play in protecting the skin, and how can these compounds be used in a high-value cosmetic formulation?
To understand unsaponifiables, we need to look at the fundamental chemical reaction of saponification. In this process, a fat (an oil or butter) is mixed with a strong alkali, such as sodium hydroxide, to produce soap and glycerine.
Most oils (approximately 95–99%) consist of triglycerides, which contain saponifiable fatty acids that take part in this transformation.
The unsaponifiable fraction comprises all the non-glyceride substances that do not react with sodium hydroxide and remain intact after saponification.
Although often present in very small amounts, generally between 0.5% and 2% depending on the origin and type of vegetable oil, unsaponifiables encompass a wide range of complex lipophilic molecules. These bioactive compounds are extracted through distillation or fractional crystallisation to preserve their purity and effectiveness.
Unlike triglycerides, which mainly provide nourishment and structure, the unsaponifiable fraction delivers biologically active properties that are fundamental to skin health and the stability of skincare products.
Scientists and cosmetic research specialists take a close interest in unsaponifiables because of their remarkable compatibility with the biological structure of the epidermis. Depending on the concentrations used, they provide targeted solutions for dry, dehydrated or mature skin.
The skin’s intercellular matrix relies on a precise balance of lipids. Incorporating cosmetic unsaponifiables helps strengthen the hydrolipidic film and restore the skin barrier. By filling gaps in the epidermis, they limit transepidermal water loss, ensuring optimal, lasting hydration.
Used as a natural emollient, the unsaponifiable fraction improves the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. It provides an immediate soothing sensation, reducing tightness and improving comfort for sensitive skin.
Rich in antioxidant molecules, unsaponifiable fractions protect cosmetic products against rancidity and deterioration, while providing protection against the oxidative stress responsible for premature ageing.
Beyond their biological effectiveness, these exceptional materials positively influence product texture. They add slip, improve spreadability and allow smooth application without leaving a sticky or heavy film.
The composition of an unsaponifiable fraction varies considerably depending on the plant source. However, it mainly contains five major families of bioactive compounds:
This natural hydrocarbon is a major component of human sebum. It offers exceptional compatibility with the epidermis and excellent emollient properties.
Their structures are similar to those of cholesterol in the skin. They have soothing and repairing properties and help maintain the structure of cell membranes.
Powerful natural antioxidants, tocopherols protect both the formulation and the skin against free radicals.
These complex alcohols strengthen the epidermis’s natural defences and support skin regeneration.
Natural pigments with photoprotective and radiance-enhancing properties, and precursors of vitamin A.
For context, in medicine and pharmacy, certain combinations of unsaponifiables, such as avocado and soybean unsaponifiables, are sometimes studied or administered as medicines to treat joint or periodontal pain. These therapeutic uses are subject to specific studies, dosing instructions, precautions and potential interactions, demonstrating the biological potency of these substances.
Although unsaponifiables are also found in sunflower oil, shea butter, soybean oil and avocado oil, olive oil stands out as one of the most valuable and effective sources for the cosmetics industry.
Olive oil has one of the unsaponifiable fractions richest in natural squalene. This biomimetic compound has an ideal affinity with the skin, allowing rapid penetration, deep absorption and a non-greasy feel that is highly valued in formulation.
As squalene is naturally present in the human hydrolipidic film, the unsaponifiable fraction derived from olive oil is immediately recognised by the epidermis. This helps improve elasticity and maintain the skin’s natural suppleness.
The production of olive oil unsaponifiables fits naturally into a green chemistry approach. By making use of co-products from olive oil extraction, it is possible to create a premium cosmetic ingredient without placing additional pressure on agricultural resources.
A major player in cosmetic innovation and a specialist in plant extraction, SOPHIM has developed Insapolive, an exceptional olive oil unsaponifiable ingredient designed to meet the demands of modern formulation practices.
Uses and versatility: Insapolive is easy to incorporate into a wide range of applications:
(anti-ageing creams, repairing balms, lipid-replenishing serums)
(lipsticks and foundations to improve wear and hydration)
(balms and massage bars rich in pure fats)
Choosing Insapolive means benefiting from SOPHIM’s industrial expertise. Our R&D teams support laboratories in selecting concentrations, developing their formulations and optimising formula stability.
By combining Insapolive with other signature ingredients such as our Phytosqualan or oils rich in linolenic acid, you can develop high-performance, biomimetic and environmentally responsible skincare products.
