Squalane C30H62 is a molecule that mimics our epidermi’s ability to repair and moisturise itself through the activity of sebum. It is an organic emollient and protective agent, appreciated on the cosmetic market for its great properties and its recognised benefits for the skin. Squalane has been at the heart of Sophim’s expertise since 1996, and we offer high quality squalane-based ingredients for your formulas.
Phytosqualan
PHYTOSQUALAN is a natural squalane, of plant origin, made from a renewable raw material, the Olive, and recognised as an essential ingredient of cosmetic formulations.
The squalene molecule (C30H50) is a major component of human sebum and the hydrolipidic film, and is also found in certain plants. Its applications are diverse, from cosmetics to pharmaceuticals. It is responsible for the integrity and healthy appearance of the skin’s surface. Our expertise consists of hydrogenating squalene extracted from olives to produce squalane. Sophim is now able to offer two grades of Phytosqualan: PHYTOSQUALAN, of olive plant origin & PHYTOSQUALAN VG, of soya/sunflower plant origin.
Insapolive : Unsaponifiables from Olive Oil Olea Europaea
SOPHIM, leader in the production of vegetable squalene, offers INSAPOLIVE, an unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil, enriched in squalene. INSAPOLIVE is a natural ingredient obtained from renewable raw materials, derived from olive.
What is squalane?
What is squalane?
Squalane is often confused with squalene. To better understand what squalane is, it is important to define squalene correctly.
Squalane: a stable squalene derivative
Squalene is a low-viscosity oil that is present in the unsaponifiable fraction of the oil of certain plants, notably olive oil, and in the unsaponifiable fractions of soybean or sunflower oil. Its chemical formula is C30H50. The unsaponifiable fraction of oils generally represents 1%, and contains tocopherols (vitamin E), sterols and squalene.
One may wonder why squalene is not used directly in cosmetic formulations. As a natural compound, composed of an unsaturated carbon chain, squalene is subject to oxidation, and would be unstable if incorporated into a cosmetic formula. This is why formulators tend to look for Squalane, whose chemical formula is C30H62, a stable derivative of squalene.
Squalane: a definition
Sophim is the world leader in the extraction of squalene from olive oil and the production of natural squalane. We extract squalene from food industry co-products, and by hydrogenating it, we are able to produce its stable derivative: Squalane.
What is squalane oil? Squalane is the molecule that mimics our skin’s ability to moisturise and repair itself. Because it is composed of a saturated carbon chain, which means there are no chemical double bonds, it is more stable and therefore more likely to be incorporated into cosmetic formulas.
Types of squalane
Today, several types of squalane are available on the market.
Natural squalane:
In cosmetic applications, natural-type squalane will always be the preferred choice, especially squalane of plant origin, as it responds to a strong trend towards the development of natural products.
Plant origin: SOPHIM is now the leading manufacturer of vegetable squalane. The main source is Olive, but we also offer squalane from other plant sources such as Soya or Sunflower. We are proud to offer high-quality squalane ingredients from a variety of origins:
- Phytosqualan® : Phytosqualan® is a top-quality vegetable squalane, extracted from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. It has a wide range of cosmetic applications, and is COSMOS-approved, solvent-free and GMO-free.
- Insapolive® : Insapolive® is a concentration of olive oil unsaponifiables, including 70% squalene. This ingredient has a powerful moisturizing effect on the epidermis, and has numerous cosmetic applications. COSMOS approved
The origin of squalane, derived from plants, can be determined very quickly using a Carbon 13 test. SOPHIM systematically carries out Carbon 13 tests (CNRS Delta C12-13 test) on all its batches of vegetable squalane.
Marine origin: Historically, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil and used as a dietary supplement in Japan. Today, marine squalane is mainly used in the pharmaceutical sector, notably in the composition of vaccines. In other applications, it has been replaced by vegetable squalane.
Synthetic squalane:
- Petrochemical: derived from terpene compound synthesis technology
- Biotechnological: derived from the fermentation of sugar molecules by genetically modified micro-organisms, followed by the production of a farnesene molecule and chemical synthesis and dimerization to obtain squalane.
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Benefits
Benefits of squalane oil for the skin
Squalane is a widely known ingredient in the cosmetics market, and is included in many products from top beauty brands.
Squalane, skin affinity and emollient properties
Because it mimics our skin’s ability to moisturise and protect itself, squalane oil is highly compatible with the skin and hair. Its excellent affinity and emollient properties make it a very popular active ingredient in the cosmetic market, and is ideal for products such as cream and milk formulas for different skin types, massage and hair oils, and hair serums.
Benefits of squalane for the skin
Natural squalane is an ally in your cosmetic formulations, and it also has multiple benefits for the skin, including being an excellent moisturiser. Squalane helps restore the lipid barrier and protects the skin and hair from dehydration. It also has great moisturising properties and can be recommended in skincare products for different skin types, such as dry skin with a formula claiming a moisturising benefit, or with a facial for oily skin, as it is non-comedogenic.
Squalane oil also has anti-inflammatory properties which allow it to have effective actions on skin inflammations such as eczema or acne. It is also a great ally in anti-ageing skin care thanks to its highly moisturising properties and its protective action against external aggressions. It can easily be incorporated into a skin care routine as a key ingredient in eye care, facial care or serum formulas
Squalane, a sensorial asset
In the beauty sector, squalane is a sensorial asset. Despite the fact that squalane is a lipid and therefore an oil, its non-greasy feel and sensation on the skin offer a sensory experience to the consumer. It is the best ingredient to enhance the sensoriality of your product. Thanks to its spreading properties, it also brings comfort and ease of use to the final product, both in skincare and make-up.
In conclusion, thanks to its sensorial texture and its compatibility with the skin, squalane is a unique natural emollient base for beauty and personal care.
Phytosqualane use in cosmetics
Phytosqualan® is a transparent, odorless, stabilized oil (extracted from olives) perfectly suited to beauty products thanks to its perfect safety and affinity with the skin.
Phytosqualan® is particularly recommended for facial care applications, including repair creams for dry skin, but also oily serums for the face, eye contour, anti-aging and mature skin formulas. Phytosqualan® is of real interest for its moisturizing and repairing properties, and as an active ingredient carrier, enabling you to develop silky cream formulas with a non-greasy feel.
Squalane is used in hair care formulations. It forms a protective film on the hair’s surface, helping to maintain its hydration. It smoothes and coats the hair fiber. Its dry feel makes it highly suitable for emulsions with a dry, silky feel. It is therefore particularly used in serum formulations for repair, protection, dry ends, dry, dehydrated hair, curly hair, color-treated hair, straightened hair, etc.
Finally, Phytosqualan® is recommended in make-up formulations, notably lipsticks, mascara and foundation, for its high spreading properties, its silky, slippery yet dry feel; it will also promote optimal pigment dispersion.
Sophim also offers an alternative to certain silicones in its range of emollients. For more information about our products, please contact us.
Sophim and Squalane
Natural squalane is at the heart of Sophim’s expertise. As early as 1996, we developed a process for extracting squalane from mainly plant sources, and more specifically from olive oil, which has the highest concentration of squalene compared to other plants. Today we are the leading supplier of vegetable squalane.
Through innovation and continuous process improvement, we are proud to offer high quality, Cosmos approved or certified squalane ingredients.
Phytosqualan®
Phytosqualan® is a high-quality vegetable squalane, produced from unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil fatty acids. Its applications in cosmetics are numerous: face creams, dry oils for body care, makeup, sun care and more. It is solvent-free, GMO free, and Cosmos approved.
Insapolive®
Insapolive® is a concentration of unsaponifiable olive oil, including 70% squalene. It has a powerful action on the hydration of the epidermis, and its applications in cosmetic products are numerous. It is Cosmos approved.
Sophim also offers an alternative to silicones in its range of emollients. For any further information about our products, please contact us.