Cosmetic formulations present specific challenges in terms of physico-chemical stability and microbiological preservation. The incorporation of high-performance yet sensitive natural actives, often prone to oxidation, requires tailored technical solutions to ensure product efficacy, safety, and durability throughout the entire lifecycle, without compromising their naturalness.
Increasingly natural formulations, alongside greater technical challenges
Brands, like consumers, are moving toward natural formulations that are more respectful of human health and the environment. The “clean beauty” trend is accompanied by a reduction in synthetic preservatives in favor of naturally derived alternatives.
This pursuit of naturality introduces specific technical constraints. Formulas rich in natural actives are often more sensitive to oxidation, microbiological contamination, and texture instability (phase separation, precipitation, viscosity fluctuations). These phenomena can compromise product efficacy, sensory qualities, and shelf life, and may even pose safety risks for end users.
Ensuring the stability of natural cosmetics has therefore become a critical priority for formulators, who strive to preserve the benefits of active ingredients while achieving optimal preservation without undermining the formula’s natural profile. This complex balance requires in-depth control of raw materials and the implementation of appropriate technological levers.
Understanding the stability and preservation of natural actives
Stability is a critical concern in cosmetic formulation. Sensitive to oxygen, light, temperature, and microbial contamination (bacteria, yeasts, molds), these fragile actives require precise preservation strategies to maintain their functional and sensory properties throughout the product’s shelf life.
The heightened sensitivity of natural ingredients
Natural ingredients deliver well-recognized benefits in cosmetics, yet they may exhibit lower physico-chemical stability than synthetic counterparts. As a result, they can degrade rapidly when exposed to air, light, heat, or humidity.
This increased sensitivity notably applies to vegetable oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, which are particularly prone to oxidative rancidity, as well as to botanical extracts, which may lose their active properties under poorly controlled temperature conditions.
Such degradation results in reduced efficacy and visual or olfactory instability (color changes, phase separation, development of off-odors). Rigorous formulation practices and the careful selection of appropriate stabilizing ingredients are essential to preserve the integrity of these actives.
The growing demand for performance and convenience
As beauty routines become more streamlined, consumers expect cosmetic products that are effective, convenient, and durable. The reduction in the number of products used daily increases the demand for concentrated formulations capable of addressing multiple needs in a single application, without compromising results.
For formulators, the challenge is clear: develop cosmetics with high levels of plant-based actives while maintaining stability throughout the product’s shelf life. The objectives are multifaceted: sustain the performance of actives that are often oxidation-sensitive, preserve a consistent sensory experience, and ensure consumer safety. The use of natural antioxidants, such as naturally derived tocopherols, along with precise pH adjustment and carefully designed preservation systems, are among the key levers available to protect the integrity of natural ingredients in high-value formulations.
Protecting natural actives to ensure efficacy and durability
Robust stability of plant-based actives is essential to sustain the performance of a cosmetic product throughout its lifecycle. Effective protection helps preserve efficacy, reduce waste, and deliver a consistent user experience through to the final application.
Fragile yet valuable natural ingredients
Preserving the functional and sensory integrity of natural actives is a major challenge within the “clean beauty” landscape. Actives derived from plant extracts deliver key benefits such as hydration, nourishment, skin barrier protection, and soothing effects for sensitive skin. However, their efficacy often depends on molecular structures that are inherently fragile and highly sensitive to oxidation, heat, humidity, and light exposure.
This vulnerability notably affects vegetable oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, as well as botanical extracts concentrated in polyphenols or flavonoids, whose stability can vary significantly depending on formulation and storage conditions. When degradation occurs, these ingredients may not only lose their functional properties but also negatively impact the sensory profile of the finished product.
An oxidized extract, a rancid oil, or an unstable plant-based active can lead to texture alterations (phase separation, thickening), color changes, and the development of unpleasant odors. Such defects are readily perceived by consumers and can undermine perceived quality, potentially affecting customer satisfaction and brand loyalty.
Optimized preservation: an economic and environmental imperative
Ensuring effective preservation of natural formulations goes beyond product stability alone. It is a strategic lever for brands, at the intersection of economic and environmental priorities. A stable, well-protected formula significantly reduces losses associated with premature product degradation and strengthens positive perception among target markets.
A cosmetic product with poorly controlled preservation parameters often leads to waste—either because its period after opening (PAO) is too short for full use, or because it deteriorates prematurely even when the expiry date remains theoretically valid. Protecting natural actives therefore addresses a dual objective: quality assurance and environmental responsibility.
When a product maintains its properties through to the final use, consumers are more likely to use it entirely rather than discard it early—a common issue with unstable natural products. This enhanced user satisfaction contributes directly to stronger brand affinity.
Improved preservation across various dosage forms plays a key role in advancing more sustainable cosmetics aligned with clean beauty principles and circular economy strategies. By helping to reduce waste, brands can also limit excess packaging and decrease overall environmental impact.
Natural solutions for stabilizing formulations: the SkinFeel TOCO 70 example
Certain ingredients stand out for their effectiveness and their ability to meet growing demands for both stability and naturality. This is the case with SkinFeel TOCO 70, a next-generation natural antioxidant designed for high-performance formulations.
An ISO 16128-compliant natural antioxidant
SkinFeel TOCO 70 supports the calculation of a high natural origin index without compromising efficacy. Its plant-based composition enables formulators to develop products aligned with the requirements of certification schemes such as COSMOS Natural and COSMOS Organic. It therefore represents a high-performing alternative to synthetic antioxidants, consistent with market expectations for transparency and sustainability.
With its oily base and low viscosity, SkinFeel TOCO 70 integrates easily into the oil phase of cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for both rich textures (balms, creams) and lighter products such as serums or biphasic mists.
The recommended dosage ranges from 0.05% to 0.2% of active tocopherols, depending on the type of oils to be protected and the targeted shelf life. Its ease of use makes it a valuable technical asset for laboratories committed to natural formulation.
An ingredient designed for formulation ease
SkinFeel TOCO 70 is a 100% natural ingredient composed primarily of natural tocopherols (notably γ- and δ-tocopherols) dispersed in organic sunflower oil. This combination delivers strong antioxidant performance while remaining fully compatible with natural and organic formulations.
It protects vegetable oils and oxidation-sensitive actives, helping extend the shelf life of cosmetic products. Acting synergistically with other formulation components, it contributes to maintaining stability while preserving the sensory and functional properties of natural cosmetic products.
Toward sustainable and responsible formulation with Sophim
Committed to a proactive sustainable development approach for more than 25 years, Sophim designs and manufactures natural cosmetic ingredients that combine performance, traceability, and environmental responsibility.
Our portfolio includes a wide range of ingredients certified by COSMOS, NATRUE, and HALAL standards, developed to meet the needs of brands engaged in natural formulation. Leveraging our expertise in green chemistry, we create ingredients compatible with high-naturality formulas while delivering excellent stability and preservation performance.
Contact our team to discuss your projects or request a sample. We are available via our online contact form, by email, or by phone at +33 (0)4 92 33 17 17.