Phytowax

Phytowax

PHYTOWAX is a range of natural waxes, developed by SOPHIM, expert in plant chemistry and especially in fats. ORganic versions are also available

These natural waxes are sourced from a renewable raw material, the Olive, and have exceptional emollient properties, as well as a unique non-greasy feel.

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The natural waxes used in Cosmetics can be of different origins :

  • Mineral : extracted from the subsoil like minerals, but formed of organic molecules; During the distillation of crude oils, a section corresponding to paraffins and waxes is obtained in a temperature zone ranging from 400°C to 500°C. They are saturated hydrocarbons with carbon numbers between 18 and 40 (or even 50 or 60). Waxes have long and branched chains which gives them a microcrystalline structure. Paraffins have slightly shorter and linear (unbranched) chains which gives them a macro crystalline structure.
  • Vegetable : : these are esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Natural fatty acids are saturated or unsaturated linear chain carboxylic acids, the most important of which contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms in even numbers. Several pieces of data characterise natural waxes and provide information on their composition, such as the acid number, the saponification index, and the iodine number. The most used vegetable waxes in cosmetic formulations are Carnauba, Jojoba and Candelilla waxes.
  • Animal : the most used wax in cosmetics is beeswax. Beeswax consists of approximately 71% esters, 15% linear long-chain hydrocarbons, 13% free acids, and 1% free alcohols. Its acidity index is between 15 and 23; its iodine value between 6 and 12; its saponification index between 85 and 105.

Waxes are very widely used in many applications as they are multifunctional: as emollients, texturisers, thickeners, protectors, etc., they enhance the stability of cosmetic formulations and improve their sensoriality.

The melting point of the waxes used in cosmetic formulations is very important and determines their behaviour; the higher the melting point of a wax, the more it will bring texture and consistency, whereas a wax with a lower melting point will bring more emollience and less texture.

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